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"Gothic Lolita
Two Gothic Lolita girls in Harajuku, TokyoGothic lolita, sometimes shortened to GothLoli (ゴスロリ, gosu rori?), is a combination of the Gothic and Lolita fashion. The fashion originated in the late 1990s and has been speculated to be "the social backlash" in response to the Japanese fashion Gyaru; however, many adherents of the Gothic Lolita fashion are inspired by music, especially visual kei, "the visual rock genre" in which musicians combine rock music with visual effects and costumes.[6]
Gothic Lolita fashion is characterized by a darker make-up and clothing.[7] Red lipstick and smokey or neatly defined eyes, created using black eyeliner, are typical styles.[8] Though Gothic make-up is associated with a white powdered face, this is usually considered bad taste within the Lolita fashion.[9] There are two types of Gothic Lolita outfits; one that Mana (see below) calls "Elegant Gothic Lolita," it usually uses dark color schemes like black, dark blues and purples. The other type is black with white accents. These dresses have been compared to French maid costumes and they're generally not thought of as being very Gothic, at least by Western standards. As with some Western Gothic styles, cross jewelry and other religious symbols are also used to accessorize the Gothic Lolita look. Other accessories in the Gothic Lolita style include bags and purses which are often in modernly common shapes like bats, coffins, and crucifixes.[10]
Like many other Lolita fashions, the visual kei movement was responsible for helping to introduce and popularize the Gothic Lolita style. One artist in particular, Mana (as mentioned above), a Japanese musician and fashion-designer, is considered to be the major force behind the popularization of the Gothic Lolita style, though he is not credited with creating it. Mana’s own Gothic Lolita fashion label, Moi-même-Moitié, has grown to be very successful. To describe the designs of his new label, he encouraged the use of the terms Elegant Gothic Lolita (EGL) and Elegant Gothic Aristocrat (EGA).[11]
[edit] Sweet Lolita
Sweet LolitaSweet Lolita, also known as ama-loli (甘ロリ, ama rori?) in Japanese, is heavily influenced by Rococo styles as well as Victorian and Edwardian clothing. Focusing on the child and fantasy aspects of Lolita, the Sweet Lolita style adopts the basic Lolita format and uses lighter colors and child Candy girl in its design.
Makeup used in sweet Lolita is common throughout most Lolita styles. Pink, Peach, or Pearl make up styles are highly 'sweet' and used by many Sweet Lolitas. This look, paired with a shade of bright pink, red, or orange lipstick, is commonly used as well.
Outfits consist of pastels, fruit themes (Cherries or strawberries, or any type of sugary fruit), flowers (Roses, jasmines, lily, cherry blossoms) lace, bows, animal themes (Cats, bunnies, angels, mice) and ribbons to emphasize the cuteness in the design. Popular themes in the sweet Lolita are references to Alice in Wonderland, fruits, sweets, and classic fairy tales. Jewelry often reflects this fantasy theme. Headdresses and bows are a popular hair accessory to the sweet Lolita look. Bags and purses are usually have a princess-like design and often take the shape of strawberries, crowns, hearts, and stuffed animals.
Examples for Sweet Lolita brands are Angelic Pretty, Baby, The Stars Shine Bright and Metamorphose temps de fille. Emily Temple cute (sister brand of Shirley Temple, a Japanese boutique), Jane Marple, and MILK are brands that carry more clothing that would be considered more casual, and are available to purchase at department stores in Japan.
[edit] Classic Lolita
A Classic Lolita and an Aristocrat.Classic Lolita is a more mature style of Lolita that focuses on Baroque, Regency, and Rococo styles. Colors and patterns used in classic Lolita can be seen as somewhere between the Gothic and sweet styles; it is not as dark as Gothic Lolita, but not as cutesy as sweet Lolita. This look can be seen as the more sophisticated, mature Lolita style because of its use of small, intricate patterns, as well more muted colors on the fabric and in the overall design.[12]
Designs containing a-lines, as well as Empire waists are also used to add to the more mature look of the classic style. Most classic Lolita outfits, however, still stick to the basic Lolita silhouette. Shoes and accessories are less whimsical and more functional. Jewelry with intricate designs is also common. The makeup used in classic Lolita is often a more muted version of the sweet Lolita makeup, with an emphasis placed on natural coloring. Classical Lolita brands include Juliette et Justine, Innocent World, Victorian Maiden, Triple Fortune, and Mary Magdalene.
[edit] Punk Lolita
Punk Lolita (or Lolita Punk) adds punk fashion elements to Lolita fashion. Motifs that are usually found in punk clothing, such as tattered fabric, ties, safety pins and chains, screen-printed fabrics, plaids, and short, androgynous hairstyles are incorporated into the Lolita look. The most popular garments are blouses or cutsews and skirts, although dresses and jumper skirts are also worn. Common footwear includes boots, Mary Janes or oxfords with platforms.[13] Common Punk Lolita brands are A+Lidel, Putumayo, h. NAOTO and Na+H. Many of the Japanese punk Lolita fashion brands take influence from London's famous Camden Town Markets. Vivienne Westwood, who, though not a Lolita designer, has items and collections that reflect Lolita sensibilities, especially in her Japanese collections, is popular in the punk Lolita scene. Males have known to take up Punk Lolita fashion, and as well as Victorian style Lolita fashion.
[edit] Other styles and themes
Because of the do-it-yourself nature of Lolita fashion, many other themes have come out of the basic Lolita frame. These styles are often not as well known as the ones mentioned above, but they do showcase the creative nature of the Lolita fashion, and illustrate how people make the fashion their own.[14] Listed below are just a few examples of the smaller subtypes of Lolita fashion.
[edit] Wa Lolita
An example of Waloli.Wa rori (和ロリ?), or Wa Lolita combines traditional Japanese clothing styles with the Lolita fashion. Wa Lolita usually consists of kimono or hakama modified to fit with common Lolita garments. The bottom half of the garment is altered to accommodate a petticoat, or a kimono-style blouse is used as a top to accompany a plain Lolita skirt. Outerwear can include haori or adult-sized hifu-vests. The shoes and accessories used in this style are typical of traditional Japanese garb including kanzashi flowers, and geta, zori, or Okobo. These shoes are often used in place of the normal Lolita platform and high-heeled shoes.[citation needed] The origin of the prefix Wa in Wa Lolita is the kanji Wa (和?), which is used to denote many things of Japanese origin.[citation needed]
[edit] Qi Lolita
Qi Lolita is a similar style but uses Chinese clothing and accessories in place of Japanese. Usually this includes qipao and cheongsam-dresses modified to accommodate a petticoat. Accessories include platform-slippers for footwear and bun-covers as hair accessories.[citation needed]
[edit] Ōji (Boystyle)
Ōji (王子?) or Ōji-sama (王子様?), meaning "prince", is a Japanese fashion that is considered the male version of Lolita fashion. This style takes its influence from the clothing boys in the Victorian era wore.[15] Though it is considered a "boy style", it is often worn by both genders.[citation needed]
Ōji is inspired by what was worn by Victorian boys, and includes masculine blouses and shirts, knickerbockers and other styles of short trousers, knee high socks, top hats, and newsboy caps. The colors usually used are black, white, blue and burgundy, though there are feminine versions of the fashion with a broader palette. Good examples would be some of the outfits sold through Baby, the Stars Shine Bright's line Alice and the Pirates.
Though in Japan this fashion is typically referred to as ouji, in the United States it is common to hear it referred to as "kodona" lolita.
[edit] Hime Lolita
Hime (姫?), or "Princess," Lolita is characterized by a princess-style look based upon the European aristocratic style.[16][17] This typically includes a tiara and a rococo style bustle back skirt.
The hime girl fashion trend boomed near the late 2000s and is credited to Jesus Diamante, whose owner, Toyotaka Miyamae, started a dress shop in Osaka in 2001 to create fit dresses for Japanese women. Miyamae credited his inspiration from Brigitte Bardot, although other people have compared hime girl fashions to Marie Antoinette.[17]
A woman who routinely dons this style is known as a hime girl (姫ギャル, hime gyaru?). The style is also known as the ageha (アゲハ?, lit. "butterfly" , comparing the elegance of the style to a butterfly.[18]
[edit] Guro Lolita
Guro Lolita (Gore Lolita) is the portrayal of a 'broken doll' or "Innocent Gore" by using items such as fake blood, make-up, and bandages to give the appearance of injury.[19] It is suggested that Guro Lolitas wear white to "emphasize the contrast between purity and their wounds" or because blood contrasts better with white.[19]
[edit] Sailor Lolita
Lolita fashion that incorporates the look of a Sailor. This can include sailor collars and ties, sailor hats, and stripes. Not to be confused with the common Japanese "seifuku" or sailor-style school uniform. Also popular is the related substyle "pirate lolita" with a similar nautical theme - this usually incorporates a more elaborate dress, styled with treasure chest bags, tricorns and eyepatches. Jewelry is heavily featured. "Alice & the Pirates" (a sub-label produced by "Baby the Stars Shine Bright" is a clothing brand which is well-known for its pirate-like aesthetic.
[edit] Influence and popularity
Lolita was influenced and popularized by the imagery of more feminine Visual Kei (or "visual art" bands. Visual Kei is a Japanese form of rock music defined by bands featuring performers in elaborate costumes but whose musical style varies. Mana, the cross-dressing former leader and guitarist of the Visual Kei band Malice Mizer is widely credited for having helped popularize Gothic Lolita. He coined the terms "Elegant Gothic Lolita" (EGL) and "Elegant Gothic Aristocrat" (EGA) to describe the style of his own fashion label Moi-même-Moitié, which was founded in 1999 and quickly established itself as one of the most coveted brands of the Lolita scene."
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